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http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/151853.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/163868.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/160865.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/201056_DEC_264.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/202056_DEC_263.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/192056_janv_269.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/195056_janv_272.pdf
http://www.bergere-de-france.be/document/upload/tricotheque/bloc/18148.pdf
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The Knitty Standard Book of British Birds [the key to our abbreviations]
alt alternate approx approximately beg begin[ning] blocking Information about blocking can be found here and here. BO bind off [cast off] cab cable CC contrasting color cn cable needle CO cast on cont continue[ing] dec decrease[ing] dpn double pointed needles[s] foll follow[s][ing] g grams i-cord When working I-cord, work is not turned. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the WS, slide all sts to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and start knitting the sts again. After the first 2 sts, give the yarn a sharp tug.
Repeat this row to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube.inc increase[ing] incl including inst instructions k knit k tbl knit through back of loop k2tog knit two together kfb knit into front and back of stitch m meter[s] MB make bobble MC main color m1 Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under
strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and
first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased.mm millimeters mult multiple opp opposite oz ounces p purl p2tog purl two together patt[s] pattern[s] pfb purl into front and back of stitch pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch[es] over rem remaining rep repeat rev St st reverse stockinette stitch RS right side[s] rnd[s] round[s] sc single crochet SK2P slip 1 stitch, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over SSK slip 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together SSP slip 2 stitches as if to purl, then purl those 2 stitches together sl slip slp slip one as if to purl sl st slip stitch st[s] stitch[es] St st stockinette stitch tbl through back of loop[s] tog together WS wrong side[s] w&t Wrap and turn. Bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next st to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this st to back of work, slip st back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin working back in the other direction.
YO yarn over * * repeat directions between ** as many times as indicated aucun commentaire
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<click for more!
I'm forever mentally undressing people. I don't stop there. I unravel seams, undo knots, unpick picked up stitches, deconstruct lace patterns, I can't help myself.
I'm pretty sure I'm not the only knitter who does this, but just in case anyone is worried, I should say I'm happy for those people I mentally undress to keep their underwear on. And any garments of woven fabric, that's ok too. Indeed, the person under it all is completely beside the point. It's the knitwear I'm after.
I wanted to design something another knitter could sit behind on the bus, stare at, mentally take to pieces and, after a minute or so, get the "oh that's how its done" feeling.
I developed this piece during a couple of months heavy in gift knitting, I wanted to make myself something, but didn't have a huge amount of time. The aran weight wool gives you a speedy knit as well as warmth, yet it manages to do this without being too bulky. An aran sweater for those without quite enough yarn or time for the full thing.
I managed all the cabling without a cable needle. I tend to find this technique fiddly, but with tightly knit aran weight it's a lot easier. As you are cabling every right side row, it's worth a try. This tutorial is very clear.
model: Alice Bell photos: Marcus RoomeSIZE XS [S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X] (shown in size M)
To fit bust: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62] inchesFINISHED MEASUREMENTS Back Width: 15[15, 17, 17.75, 17.75, 17.75, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5] inches
Full Back Length: 15[17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31] inches
Note: The sweater will not be as long as this when worn; part of it will be folded back to form a collar. How much is folded back depends on your own wearing preferences.MATERIALS Rowan Scottish Tweed Aran [100% pure new wool; 186yd/170m per 100g ball]; color: #013 Claret; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] balls 1 long US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer (For larger sizes, use a needle 40 inches or longer) 1 spare US #7/4.5mm straight or circular needle Stitch markers (Sizes XS and S require 20 markers; all other sizes require 24) Tapestry needle Brooch or kilt pin (optional)GAUGE 16 sts/22 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
The unusual construction of this piece is very loosely based on the evening wrap pattern from Yesterknits. It can be hard to get your head around its unusual shape; if you're having trouble, you might find this great tutorial helpful.
When choosing your cast on and bind off, consider ones that will resemble each other as much as possible. I paired a cable cast on with a decrease bind off.
Instructions for the cable cast on can be found here.
Instructions for the decrease bind off can be found here.
Note: The decrease bind off will more closely resemble the cable cast on if it is worked through the front loops, rather than the back loops.
Information about blocking can be found here and here.
C4B: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle.
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle.
Rib Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 3 sts)
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [p1, k2] to last two sts, p1, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: p1, [k1, p2] to last two sts, k1, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for Rib Pattern.
Cable Pattern (Worked over 12 sts):
Set-up Row [WS]: P2, k1, p2, kfb, p2, k1, p2.
Row 1 [RS]: C4F, k4, C4B.
Even-numbered Rows 2-12 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, C4F, C4B, k2.
Row 5 [RS]: K4, C4B, k4.
Row 7 [RS]: C4F, k4, C4B.
Row 9 [RS]: K2, C4F, C4B, k2.
Row 11 [RS]: K4, C4F, k4.
Repeat Rows 1-12 for Cable Pattern.PATTERN 
BACK
CO 69 [69, 81, 84, 84, 84, 87, 87, 87] sts.
Work 25 rows in Rib Pattern.
In the next row, you will work the Set-up Row of the Cable Pattern. If you are working from the chart, this is the row below Row 1.
Sizes XS, S Only:
Next Row [WS]: Work 2 sts in pattern, [place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 7 sts in pattern] 3 times, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, k1, p1. 73 sts.
Size M Only:
Next Row [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, [place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 7 sts in pattern] 4 times, p1. 85 sts.
Sizes L, XL, 2X Only:
Next Row [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 7 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 10 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 7 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 8 sts in pattern. 88 sts.
Sizes 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Next Row [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 10 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 7 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 10 sts in pattern, place marker, work Set-up Row, place marker, work 8 sts in pattern. 91 sts.
All Sizes:
Work in pattern, working sts between markers in Cable Pattern and all other sts in Rib Pattern as set, until work measures 7.5[8.5, 9.5, 10.5, 11.5, 12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Make a note of how many rows you have worked of Cable Pattern. Set work aside.
Very Important Note: Do not be tempted to change the back length of the piece! Because of the way this garment is constructed, the length of the piece directly affects the chest circumference. The length at this point must be equal to one quarter of the desired chest circumference.
UPPER BACK AND FRONTS
Using spare needle and a new ball of yarn, CO 63[63, 69, 69, 69, 69, 72, 72, 72] sts. Break yarn and set this needle aside.
With RS of work facing, CO 63[63, 69, 69, 69, 69, 72, 72, 72] sts using cable cast on. 136[136, 154, 157, 157, 157, 163, 163, 163] sts.
In the next row, the sts which have been cast onto the spare needle will be joined to the rest of the work.
Sizes XS, S Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, [k2, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, p1, k2, p1] 3 times, k2, p1, k1; work sts of Back in pattern as set; working across sts on spare needle, k1, p1, k2, p1, [k2, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, p1, k2, p1] 3 times, k1. 199 sts. Make a note of which row of Cable Pattern you have just completed (on Back sts).
Sizes M, L, XL, 2X Only:
Next Row [RS]: P1, [place marker, k12, place marker, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1] 3 times, place marker, k11; k first st of Back, place marker, work in pattern to last st of Back, place marker, k1; working across sts on spare needle, k11, place marker, [p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, place marker, k12, place marker] 3 times, p1. -[-, 223, 226, 226, 226, -, -, -] sts. Make a note of which row of Cable Pattern you have just completed (on Back sts).
Sizes 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Next Row [RS]: P1, place marker, k12, place marker, [p1, k2] twice, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, [p1, k2] twice, p1, place marker, k11; k first st of Back, place marker, work in pattern to last st of Back, place marker, k1; working across sts on spare needle, k11, place marker, [p1, k2] twice, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, [p1, k2] twice, p1, place marker, k12, place marker, p1. 235 sts.
All Sizes:
Work all sts in pattern, working sts between markers, beginning with next row of Cable Pattern.
Continue in pattern until you have completed the same number of rows of Cable Pattern for the upper portion as you worked for the Back, ending with a WS row. The upper portion of the work at this point must be the same length as the cabled portion of the lower Back.
Next Row [RS]: [Work in pattern to marker, remove marker, k2, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k2, remove marker] until all markers have been removed, work in pattern to end. 189[189, 211, 214, 214, 214, 223, 223, 223] sts.
Work 25 rows in Rib Pattern.
Loosely BO all sts. (See note in Pattern Notes about selecting your BO method.)FINISHING 
Weave in ends.
Wet-block piece.Referring to schematic, sew edge A to edge B, and edge C to edge D.
The long, continuous ribbed edge which will result forms the lower and front edges of the piece, as well as the collar.Experiment with the piece to determine how you would like to wear it. The part of the garment which was labelled "lower back" during the knitting can also be worn as the upper back and collar... see how it works best for you!
Once you have determined how you wwuld like to wear it, and how much of the collar you wish to turn back, lightly steam block the garment (especially the collar) to help set its shape.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
Alice is doing PhD in Children's Science Literature and knit-blogs here. This design is named after a dear friend who died suddenly last summer. \Pattern & images © 2007 Alice Bell. Contact Alice <click for more!
Soft, subtle colors mix with warm and cool neutrals for a sweater that will harmonize equally well with blue jeans or khakis. The grey bounces off the warmer tones so you would swear it was slate blue, a striking example of how a color can vary depending on its context. The yarn is a cotton-modal blend that is soft, drapey and a pleasure to knit.
The body is gently shaped to avoid a boxy shape and has a little bit of extra room in the front to help prevent gaping button bands.
Although it may look like fair isle at first glance, this is a mosaic pattern — no stranding, just one color per row.
model: Sarah Beal photos: Barbara Gregory SIZE XS [S, M, L, XL,] (shown in size S) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 33.5[36.75, 41.25, 45, 49.5] inches
Length: 20.25[21.75, 22.75, 23.25, 24] inchesMATERIALS Knit Picks Shine Sport [60% Pima Cotton, 40% Modal; 110yd/100m per 50 g skein] [A] #23816 Willow; 5[5, 6, 6, 7] skeins [B] #23620 Sand; 2[3, 3, 3, 4] skeins [C] #23616 Cloud; 2[2, 3, 3, 3] skeins [D] #23815 Silver Sage; 3[3, 4, 4, 4] skeins [E] #23615 Cream; 3[3, 3, 4, 4] skeins 1 US #2/2.75mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer 1 set US #3/3.25mm straight needles Stitch holders Safety pins Tapestry needle 5[6, 6, 6, 7] x 0.5 inch buttonsGAUGE 24 sts / 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using larger needles
25 sts / 44 rows = 4 inches in charted pattern using larger needles, after blockingPATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
This is a slip stitch, or mosaic pattern. Each row is worked using only one color, with stitches slipped in each row. As a result, stitches from previous rows appear to have been worked in a color pattern with the stitches in the current row.
When reading the chart, the column to the right of the chart indicates which color is to be used for each row. All stitches in a row which are shown in a contrasting color, should be slipped (as indicated). Every knit row is followed by a purl row of the same color, and the stitches that were worked in the knit row are worked again in the purl row.
To work a slip stitch, transfer it to the right needle without knitting or purling it. It should be slipped in such a way that it is ready to knit on the next row; for most knitters this means slipping purlwise. The working yarn is always held to the wrong side of the fabric as a stitch is slipped, and should be carried loosely behind the slipped stitch to prevent the fabric from puckering.
Do not slip the first or last stitch of any row. Maintain the first and last stitches of each row in stockinette stitch, working them in the working color for that row, regardless of what is indicated in the chart. This will produce a stable edge for seaming.
The knitted fabric produced by this pattern improves with blocking. It is important to block the gauge swatch before measuring, both to obtain an accurate measurement and to see the finished texture of the fabric.
Carry the colors not in use loosely up the side of the work. They may be cut and rejoined when necessary (at the beginning of the armhole shaping, for example). When beginning a RS row, bring the working yarn from under the other yarns to keep the edge tidy.
For all sizes, the sleeves to the beginning of the sleeve cap shaping are 40 rows (one full repeat) longer than the lower body to the beginning of the armhole shaping. This ensures that the pattern matches at the point where sleeve meets body. If you wish to change the length of the sleeves or body, ideally they should both be altered by the same number of rows. Alternately, the sleeve may be shortened by 1.25 inches by casting on 49[49, 55, 59, 65] sts and omitting the first 16 rows of the Sleeve Border (begin working border on Row 17).
The Long-Tail Cast On is recommended for this project. Directions for the Long-Tail Cast On can be found here.
Directions for the One-Row Buttonhole used for this sweater may be found here.
Three-Needle Bind Off using Two Needles:
This is my preferred method for working a Three-Needle Bind Off.
With right sides facing, slip the sts of the two pieces to be joined onto one smaller needle, so that they alternate: [1 st from front piece, 1 st from back piece] to end.
Using the yarn attached and the larger needle, k2tog, [k2tog, pass first st worked over second st] until all sts have been worked. Break yarn and draw through loop on needle.
1x1 Rib (Worked over an odd number of sts):
Row 1 [WS]: P1, [k1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, [p1, k1] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib.
Ssp: Slip the next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to the right needle. Slip them back to the left needle and purl them together through their back loops.
PATTERN 
BACK
Using US #2/2.75mm needle and A, CO 109[119, 133, 145, 159] sts.
Lower Border:
Note: Row 1 is a WS row.
Rows 1-3: K all sts.
Row 4 [RS]: Using B, k all sts.
Rows 5-7: Using B, work in 1x1 Rib.
Rows 8-11: Using C, k all sts.
Row 12 [RS]: Using A, k all sts.
Rows 13-15: Using A, work in 1x1 Rib.
Rows 16-19: Using B, k all sts.
Row 20 [RS]: Using C, k all sts
Rows 21-23: Using C, work in 1x1 Rib.
Rows 24-27: Using A, k all sts.
Lower Back:
Using US #3/3.25mm needles and D, work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Work Row 1 of Chart, beginning with st number 5[11, 4, 9, 13], and ending with st number 3[19, 4, 21, 17].
Work 7 more rows in pattern as set.
Shape Waist:
Decrease Row [RS]: Continuing in pattern, k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10[10, 12, 12, 12] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 101[111, 125, 137, 151] sts.
Work 39 rows in pattern.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work to last st, m1, k1.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern, then work Increase Row once more. 105[115, 129, 141, 155] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 13[13.75, 14.25, 14.5 14.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Make a note of the last pattern row worked.
Shape Armholes:
BO 4[4, 5, 6, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 97[107, 119, 129, 137] sts.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat Decrease Row every 2 rows 2[2, 3, 7, 8] times. 91[101, 111, 113, 119] sts.
Repeat Decrease Row every 4 rows 2[4, 5, 3, 5] times. 87[93, 101, 107, 109] sts.
Continue in pattern as set until work measures 6.25[7, 7.5, 7.75, 8.5] inches from beginning of armhole, ending with a WS row.
Shape Back Neckline:
Row 1 [RS]: Work 34[36, 38, 39, 40] sts in pattern; place remaining sts on st holder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 6 sts, work in pattern to end.
Row 3 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. 22[24, 26, 27, 28] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Rows 7-8: Work as for Rows 5-6. 20[22, 24, 25, 26] sts.
Work 3 more rows in pattern. Work measures 7.25[8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole. Place sts on st holder.
Replace held sts on needle with RS facing and rejoin yarn.
Row 1 [RS]: BO 19[21, 25, 29, 29] sts, work in pattern to end. 34[36, 38, 39, 40] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 6 sts, work in pattern to end.
Rows 4-5: Work as for Rows 2-3. 22[24, 26, 27, 28] sts.
Row 6 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Row 7 [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Rows 8-9: Work as for Rows 6-7. 20[22, 24, 25, 26] sts.
Work 2 more rows in pattern. Place sts on st holder.
LEFT FRONT
Note: Read ahead! Neckline shaping is worked at the same time as Waist and Armhole shaping.
Using US #2/2.75mm needle and A, CO 56[61, 68, 74, 81] sts.
Work Rows 1-27 of Border as for Back.
Using US #3/3.25mm needles and D, work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Work Row 1 of Chart, beginning with st number 4[11, 4, 8, 13], and ending with st number 15[5, 5, 15, 5].
Work 7 more rows in pattern as set.
Shape Waist:
Decrease Row [RS]: Continuing in pattern, k1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10[10, 12, 12, 12] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 52[57, 64, 70, 77] sts.
Work 39 rows in pattern.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to end.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern, then work Increase Row once more. 54[59, 66, 72, 79] sts.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 9.75[10.75, 11, 11.5, 12] inches, ending with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat Neckline Decrease Row every 4 rows 21[17, 18, 26, 27] times.
Repeat Neckline Decrease Row every 6 rows 3[8, 9, 3, 2] times.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures same as Back to underarms, ending with same row of pattern, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [RS]: BO 4[4, 5, 6, 9] sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Armhole Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat Armhole Decrease Row every 2 rows 2[2, 3, 7, 8] times.
Repeat Armhole Decrease Row every 4 rows 2[4, 5, 3, 5] times.
When all neckline and armhole shaping has been worked, 20[22, 24, 25, 26] sts remain. Continue in pattern until work measures same as Back to shoulder, ending with same pattern row.
Join sts on needle to sts of Back Left Shoulder using Three-Needle Bind Off (or Three-Needle Bind Off using Two Needles: see Pattern Notes, above).
RIGHT FRONT
Note: Read ahead! Neckline shaping is worked at the same time as Waist and Armhole shaping.
Using US #2/2.75mm needle and A, CO 56[61, 68, 74, 81] sts.
Work Rows 1-27 of Border as for Back.
Using US #3/3.25mm needles and D, work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Work Row 1 of Chart, beginning with st number 15[3, 3, 15, 3], and ending with st number 4[19, 4, 22, 17].
Work 7 more rows in pattern as set.
Shape Waist:
Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10[10, 12, 12, 12] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 52[57, 64, 70, 77] sts.
Work 39 rows in pattern.
Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern, then work Increase Row once more. 54[59, 66, 72, 79] sts.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 9.75[10.75, 11, 11.5, 12] inches, ending with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat the Neckline Decrease Row every 4 rows 21[17, 18, 26, 27] times.
Repeat the Neckline Decrease Row every 6 rows 3[8, 9, 3, 2] times.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 1 row longer than Back to underarms, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[4, 5, 6, 9] sts, work in pattern to end.
Armhole Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat Armhole Decrease Row every 2 rows 2[2, 3, 7, 8] times.
Repeat Armhole Decrease Row every 4 rows 2[4, 5, 3, 5] times.
When all neckline and armhole shaping has been worked, 20[22, 24, 25, 26] sts remain. Continue in pattern until work measures same as Back to shoulder, ending with same pattern row.
Join sts on needle to sts of Back Right Shoulder using Three-Needle Bind Off (or Three-Needle Bind Off using Two Needles).
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using US #2/2.75mm needle and A, CO 47[47, 53, 57, 63] sts.
Work Rows 1-9 of Border as for Back.
Row 10: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Work Rows 11-19 of Border as for Back.
Row 20 [RS]: Using C, k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 51[51, 57, 61, 67] sts.
Work Rows 21-27 of Border as for Back.
Next Row [RS]: Using US #3/3.25mm needles and D, k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. 53[53, 59, 63, 69] sts.
P 1 row.
Work Row 1 of Chart, beginning with st number 22[22, 19, 17, 14], and ending with st number 8[8, 11, 13, 16].
Work 9[9, 11, 11, 11] rows in pattern.
Sleeve Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat Sleeve Increase Row every 10[10, 10, 8, 8] rows 4[14, 9, 7, 20] times. 63[83, 79, 79, 111] sts.
Sizes XS, M, L Only:
Repeat Sleeve Increase Row every 12[-, 12, 10, -] rows 8[-, 5, 10, -] times. 79[-, 89, 99, -] sts.
All Sizes:
Continue in pattern until work measures 16.5[17.25, 17.75, 18, 18] inches, ending with last pattern row worked for Back at underarm.
Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 4[4, 5, 6, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 71[75, 79, 87, 93] sts.
Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, p2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssp, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 2] times more, then work Decrease Row 1 once more. 57[61, 65, 77, 79] sts.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every 2 rows 6[6, 5, 10, 8] times. 45[49, 55, 57, 63] sts.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every 4 rows 3[7, 7, 5, 6] times. 39[35, 41, 47, 51] sts.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every 2 rows 5[3, 7, 6, 10] times. 29[29, 27, 35, 31] sts.
Work Decrease Row 1.
Work Decrease Row 2.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[1, 1, 3, 1] times more.
Size S Only:
Work Decrease Row 1.
All Sizes:
BO remaining 17[19, 19, 19, 23] sts.FINISHING 
Use safety pins to mark desired locations for 5[6, 6, 6, 7] buttons along right front edge. Place first buttonhole close to lower edge, and last buttonhole just below beginning of neckline shaping. Front Band:
With RS facing, using #2/2.75mm needle and C, pick up and k 7 sts for every 12 rows and 1 st in each bound-off st along right front edge, along back neckline edge, and along left front edge.
Rows 1-3: K all sts. Break C.
Row 4 [RS]: Using B, k all sts.
Row 5 [WS]: Work in 1x1 Rib.
Row 6 [RS]: Work in 1x1 Rib, working buttonholes at points indicated by safety pins.
(See Pattern Notes above for a link to directions for the buttonhole used for this sweater.)
Row 7 [WS]: Work in 1x1 Rib. Break B.
Rows 8-10: Using A, k all sts.
Row 11 [WS]: BO all sts knitwise.Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Sew buttons to left front band, opposite buttonholes.CARE
Although Knit Picks suggests careful machine drying for this yarn, the texture created by the mosaic pattern looks best when dried flat.ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
Barbara Gregory knits and illustrates in Toronto. She likes to use many colors in both of these pursuits. You can see examples of her efforts at barbaragregory.comPattern & images © 2007 . Contact Barbara 
<click for more!
by
I would never consider myself a girly girl, but I love romantic and feminine clothing and designs. Jennie Atkinson and Vera Wang are two of my favorite designer heroes, I adore clothes from Anthropologie (although I can never actually afford anything from there) and can’t resist anything with lace, ribbon, embroidery, or dainty bead/button details.
As a medical student, there are few opportunities for me to wear such clothing, since if I’m not in hospital scrubs, I’m adhering to the business casual dress code. I designed this sweater as a more feminine alternative to collared, button-up shirts that can be worn under a white coat or business suit jacket. In this sweater I have included some of my favorite style elements: a swooping neckline, bell sleeves, empire waist, and simple scallop lace. Made to fit closely, this sweater flatters a woman’s curves and has a graceful silhouette. Finishing touches were done in crochet, such as the waist and elbow ties, the belt loops, [see below] and the shrimp-stitch edging that borders the neckline. The ties and belt loops are optional, in case you prefer the sweater without the “girly” details (shown above).
model: Ruby Lo photos: Yu KawaiSIZE XS[S, M, L, 1XL, 2XL, 3XL] (shown in size S) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length: 20.5[22, 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26] inchesMATERIALS Lang Golf [100% mercerized cotton; 135yd/124m per 50g skein]; color: #0016 Green; 8[9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 16] skeins Note: This color has been discontinued.
Recommended needle size: 1 set US #5/3.75mm straight needles 1 E/4 / 3.5mm crochet hook
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Tapestry needle Stitch holders 16 buttons, 3/8 inch / 9mm diameter GAUGE 26 sts/34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
SKP: Sl 1, k1, pass slipped st overScallop Lace Pattern
(Worked over a multiple of 9 sts + 2):
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k1, yo, k2, SKP, k2tog, k2, yo] to last st, k1.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-6 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, [yo, k2, SKP, k2tog, k2, yo, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, p to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 for pattern.Shaping Note:
Within the lace pattern, each [yo] is paired with a decrease. When increasing or decreasing at edge of work (ie. when shaping waist, sleeves, etc.), be sure to keep lace pattern correct. Do not work a [yo] if there are not enough sts to work its accompanying decrease.Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.
Crab Stitch (Also called Reverse Single Crochet):
Tutorial with photos and a video can be found here.DIRECTIONS 
BACK
CO 110[128, 137, 155, 164, 182, 191] sts.
K 1 row.
P 1 row.
Work 4 rows in Scallop Lace Pattern.Note: Decrease Row is worked on Row 5 of Scallop Lace Pattern.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, k1.
Work 5 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6 rows 10[12, 10, 12, 12, 13, 12] times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 86[100, 113, 127, 136, 152, 163] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures approx. 9[9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10] inches, ending with Row 6 of pattern.Work 6 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
P 1 row.
This forms a purl ridge on RS of work, which indicates top of waistband.Work 3[3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 5[4, 4, 4, 6, 5, 6] times more. 98[110, 123, 137, 150, 164, 177] sts.Continue in stockinette st until work measures 14.5[15.5 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17] inches, ending with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Size XS Only:
BO 3 sts at begining of next 2 rows. 92 sts.Size S Only:
BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 98 sts.Sizes M, L, 1X Only:
BO -[-, 4, 5, 5, -, -] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
BO 3 sts at beginning of next -[-, 2, 2, 4, -, -] rows.
BO 2 sts at beginning of next -[-, 4, 2, 2, -, -] rows. -[-, 101, 117, 124, -, -] sts.Sizes 2X, 3X Only:
BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
BO 4 sts at beginning of next -[-, -, -, - 2, 4] rows.
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 134, 139] sts.All Sizes:
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 1, 5, 5, 6, 5] times more. 86[92, 97, 105, 112, 120, 127] sts.Continue in stockinette st until work measures 19.75[21.25, 21.75, 22.75, 23.75, 24.75, 25.25] inches (armhole measures 5.25, 5.75, 6.25, 6.75, 7.25, 7.75, 8.25] inches), ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: K32[35, 37, 40, 43, 47, 51]; attach second ball of yarn and BO next 22[22, 23, 25, 26, 26, 25] sts, k end.
In the directions that follow, “first half” will refer to the set of sts worked before the gap created by the BO sts at center back. Directions for first half and second half will be separated by a semi-colon.
Working both sides at the same time using attached balls of yarn, continue as follows.
Row 1 [WS]: P to end of first half; BO 6 [6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, p to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K to end of first half; BO 6 [6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 20[23, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35] sts in each half.
P 1 row.
Work measures 20.5[22, 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26] inches (armhole measures 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9] inches).
Place sts on st holders.
FRONT
Work as for Back until work is 1 row shorter than Back at beginning of armhole shaping (ending with a RS row).
Next Row [WS]: P76[73, 81, 89, 94, 101, 107], place marker, p31[37, 42, 48, 56, 63, 70].
Note: Read ahead! Armhole and neckline shaping are worked at the same time.Work armhole shaping as for Back. AT THE SAME TIME: Shape neckline as follows, beginning on first row of armhole shaping:
Next Row [RS]: K to marker, remove marker; attach second ball of yarn and BO next 36[36, 39, 41, 38, 38, 37] sts, k to end.
In the directions that follow, "first half" will refer to the set of sts worked before the gap created by the BO sts at center front. Directions for first half and second half will be separated by a semi-colon.
Working both sides at the same time using attached balls of yarn, continue as follows.
Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Next Row: Work to end of first half; BO 4 sts, work to end.
Repeat this row once more.All Sizes:
Next Row: Work to end of first half; BO 3 sts, work to end.
Repeat this row once more.
Next Row: Work to end of first half; BO 2 sts, work to end.
Repeat this row once more.Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Next Row: Work to end of first half; BO 1 st, work to end.
Repeat this row once more.All Sizes:
When all neckline and armhole shaping has been completed, 20[23, 23, 26, 27, 31, 35] sts remain in each half.
Continue in pattern until work measures same as Back to shoulder. Join sts of each shoulder to sts of corresponding Back shoulder using Three-Needle Bind Off.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
CO 83[92, 92, 92, 101, 101, 101] sts.
K 1 row. P 1 row.
Work 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 12, 20] rows in Scallop Lace Pattern.Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 5[5, 5, 7, 7, 11, 19] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 12, 20] rows 14[15, 12, 9, 10, 6, 3] times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 51[58, 64, 70, 77, 85, 91] sts.Continue in pattern until work measures 12 inches or 6.5 inches less than desired length to underarm, ending with Row 6 of pattern.
Work 6 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
P 1 row.
This forms a purl ridge on RS of work, which indicates top of sleeve band.Work 5[5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 9, 9] times more. 65[72, 78, 88, 95, 105, 111] sts.Continue in stockinette st until work measures 18.5 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 3[5, 7, 6, 7, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 59[62, 64, 76, 81, 87, 91] sts.Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
BO -[-, -, 5, 6, 7, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, 66, 69, 73, 77] sts.All Sizes:
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 8[8, 8, 7, 7, 7, 8] times more. 41[44, 46, 50, 53, 57, 59] sts.Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7] times more. 35[36, 36, 38, 39, 41, 43] sts.Work Decrease Row. P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 8[8, 7, 7, 6, 7, 8] times more.
BO remaining 17[18, 20, 22, 25, 25, 25] sts.FINISHING 
Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.Neckline Border:
Attach yarn at center back of neckline.
Work 1 row single crochet around neckline, sl st in first sc to join.
Work 1 row Crab Stitch around neckline. Fasten off.Weave in ends.
Note: Belt loops and waist and elbow ties are optional.
Belt Loops (Make 8):
Ch 9. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Sew 4 belt loops over waistband 2.5-3 inches from side seams, as shown in photo.
Sew 1 belt loop over each sleeve band, at sleeve seam.
Sew 1 belt loop to center of each sleeve over sleeve band.
Sew a button to the top and bottom of each belt loop.Waist Tie:
Ch 7. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. 6 sc.
Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end.
Repeat this row until work measures 24 inches longer than waist circumference, or desired length.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.Sleeve Ties:
Ch 5. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. 4 sc.
Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end.
Repeat this row until work measures 24 inches longer than arm crcumference, or desired length. Fasten off. Weave in ends.Thread tie through belt loops and tie in bows at back of sweater, as shown.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
Ruby is currently a 3rd year medical student in Ohio but is originally from Northern California and longs to return home. Her love of needlework was established at a young age when her mother taught her the basics of knitting, crochet, and cross stitch. She only recently picked up knitting again and laments the lost knitting time.
In between cramming for board exams and trying not to get pummeled on the hospital wards, Ruby tries to eke out a few rows of knitting every once in a while and dreams about her next design project.
Pattern & images © 2008 Ruby Lo. Contact Ruby <click for more!
by I love this Slanting Shell Stitch pattern as it spirals around in opposite directions on opposite hands in these fingerless gloves. The thumb automatically tucks into a very natural position because of the spiral stitch pattern.
I've included instructions for a long glove and a short glove. The only difference between the two gloves is the number of rounds (pattern repeats) worked on size 2 needles in the wrist section of the glove: the long version has 5 repeats or 50 rounds and the short version has 2 repeats or 20 rounds. Because the yarns I used in my gloves were spun at different wpi, and I knit the shorter glove from the thicker yarn, the gauge naturally differs slightly between the two and the narrowing at the wrist is not as obvious.
model: ?? photos: Lynne VogelSIZE Short[Long]: To fit an average woman's hand and wrist FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Length: 8.75[11.5] inches
Cuff circumference: 8 inches
Wrist circumference: 7[6.5] inches
Palm circumference: 6.5[6] inchesMATERIALS Short gloves: DK weight yarn, wpi 13; approx. 180yd/165m Long gloves: Sport weight yarn, wpi 14; approx. 220yd/201m
Note: Sport weight sock yarn is a suitable substitute.
Recommended needle size: 1 set of five US #2/2.75mm double-point needles 1 set of five US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Safety pin or split ring marker Waste yarn Tapestry needleGAUGE 18 sts (3 pattern repeats) = 2.75[2.5] inches in pattern on US #3/3.25mm needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
If you want your gloves to be identical twins, begin knitting at the same place in the color repeat sequence of your yarn. See spinning article for more information on how to spin color sequences.
2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts):
Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Repeat this round for 2x2 Rib.
Left Hand Pattern
(Worked over a multiple of 6 sts):
Round 1: [Yo, ssk, k4] to end.
Even-Numbered Rounds 2-10: K all sts.
Round 3: [Yo, k1, ssk, k3] to end.
Round 5: [Yo, k2, ssk, k2] to end.
Round 7: [Yo, k3, ssk, k1] to end.
Round 9: [Yo, k4, ssk] to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-10 for Left Hand Pattern.Right Hand Pattern
(Worked over a multiple of 6 sts):
Round 1: [K4, k2tog, yo] to end.
Even-Numbered Rounds 2-10: K all sts.
Round 3: [K3, k2tog, k1, yo] to end.
Round 5: [K2, k2tog, k2, yo] to end.
Round 7: [K1, k2tog, k3, yo] to end.
Round 9: [K2tog, k4, yo] to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-10 for Right Hand Pattern.DIRECTIONS 
LEFT GLOVE
Using larger needle, CO 48 sts. Divide sts between needles, placing 12 sts on each needle.
Note: If you are using a different needle configuration, such as a set of 4 needles or two circular needle, note that sts must be divided between needles in multiples of 6, to help keep track of stitch pattern.Work 6 rounds 2x2 Rib. Place safety pin or split ring marker in work to mark end of round.
Work 20 rounds Left Hand Pattern.
Using smaller needles, work 20[50] rounds in pattern.
Using larger needles, work 19 rounds in pattern, ending with Round 9.Place Thumb:
Slip last 12 sts of last round worked to waste yarn. 36 sts on needles.
Next Round: Work Round 10 of pattern to end; CO 6 sts and join to resume working in the round. 42 sts.Palm:
Work 18 more rounds in pattern, ending with Round 9.
Next Round: [K21, m1] twice. 44 sts.
Work 4 rounds 2x2 Rib. BO all sts.Thumb:
Replace held sts of thumb on two needles, placing 6 sts on each needle.
Using a third needle, pick up and k 8 sts in CO edge of thumb hole. This needle will be designated Needle 1. K sts on other needles, ending at beginning of Needle 1. 20 sts.
Round 1: Ssk, k4, k2tog, [yo, ssk, k4] twice. 18 sts.
Round 2: K all sts.
Round 3: Ssk, k2, k2tog, [yo, k1, ssk, k3] twice. 16 sts.
Round 4: K all sts.
Work 4 rounds 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts.RIGHT GLOVE
CO and work ribbing as for left glove.Work 20 rounds Right Hand Pattern.
Using smaller needles, work 20[50] rounds in pattern.
Using larger needles, work 19 rounds in pattern, ending with Round 9.Place Thumb:
Slip first 12 sts of next round to waste yarn. 36 sts on needles.
Next Round: CO 6 sts and join to resume working in the round; work Round 10 of pattern to end. 42 sts.Work Palm as for left glove.
Thumb:
Replace held sts of thumb on two needles, placing 6 sts on each needle.
Using a third needle, pick up and k 8 sts in CO edge of thumb hole. This needle will be designated Needle 1. K sts on other needles, ending at beginning of Needle 1. 20 sts.
Round 1: Ssk, k4, k2tog, [k4, k2tog, yo] twice. 18 sts.
Round 2: K all sts.
Round 3: Ssk, k2, k2tog, [k3, k2tog, k1, yo] twice. 16 sts.
Round 4: K all sts.
Work 4 rounds 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts.FINISHING Weave in ends. Block if desired.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
If you don't find Lynne dyeing, spinning, knitting, or crocheting, or writing about said activities, you might try looking for her on the many woodland trails around Sewanee, TN, with husband, James, and dogs Monk and Pearl. If she isn't there, she could easily be traveling to teach workshops nationwide. The recent release, Twisted Sisters Knit Sweaters, is her second book. You can find her patterns and yarn at her Etsy store. Find out where she's teaching this year on her blog.
Pattern & images © 2008 Lynne Vogel. Contact Lynne 
by Elizabeth Freeman
I fell in love with Estonian lace for its beautiful undulating forms. The curving lines and blossoms of this shawl, coupled with the spectacular green of the Fleece Artist yarn, also suggest the waving fronds and floats of an undersea kelp forest.
This pattern will challenge you with uniquely Estonian stitches. Also, stitch markers are tricky to place in these pattern stitches, so being able to read your knitting is a must! But wrong side rows are straightforward purling to let you catch your breath. So jump on in, the water is fine!
model: Elizabeth Freeman photos: Sylvia Hilsinger, Elizabeth FreemanSIZE Shoulderette[Shawl] (shown in brown[green]) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Length at center back: 23[38] inches
Width: 50[82] inchesMATERIALS Brown Shoulderette:
Misti Alpaca Lace [100% Baby Alpaca; 437yd/400m per 50g skein]; color: Natural Tan; 1 skein
Note: The shoulderette shown required approx. 436.5yd/399m! Buy a second skein to be safe.
Recommended needle size: 1 24-inch US 4/3.5mm circular needle
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]Green Shawl:
Fleece Artist Suri Blue [50% Suri Alpaca/50% Blue Faced Leicester wool; 656yd/600m per 100g skein]; color: Moss; 2 skeins
Note: Shawl required approx. 1094yd/1000m.
Recommended needle size: 1 32-inch US 5/3.75mm circular needle
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]For Both:
Crochet hook Waste yarn Stitch markers Cable needle Smooth string or yarn, or blocking wires Rust-proof pinsGAUGE Gauge is measured over Star Chart. Correct gauge is not essential for this project unless you are working with a limited quantity of yarn (ie. if you are working the Shoulderette as written using only 1 skein of the yarn listed). However, if you do wish to swatch and measure your gauge before beginning, use the Swatch Chart provided below. Block swatch, allow to dry, unpin and allow to relax before measuring gauge.
Shawl: 24 sts/24 rows = 4 inches on US #5/3.75mm needles
Shoulderette: 28 sts/28 rows = 4 inches on US #4/3.5mm needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
This pattern is modular. As long as you finish each chart on row 8, you can repeat the Star chart or the Blossom chart as many times as you like before moving on to the next chart. Just be aware that the Edging section requires a surprising quantity of yarn. For the green shawl, the final 28 rows and bind-off required 32% of the yarn. For the smaller brown shoulderette, the edging required 44% of the yarn!
If you are using stitch markers between each pattern repeat to keep track of the lace pattern, note that there will be points in each chart where decreases within the pattern will necessitate moving the markers. For example, in Row 4 of the Blossom Chart, the [k2tog] at the end of the repeat would be worked with the sts just before and after the marker. Remove the marker before working this decrease and replace it afterwards, checking to be sure it is in the correct position and that the repeat still has the correct number of sts. Stitch markers are not recommended for the Set-Up and Star Charts.
Estonian Stitches:
This shawl was inspired by three stitch patterns from Pitsilised Koekirjad, an Estonian stitch dictionary. The stitches in this shawl are based on several variants of star stitches. For an excellent description of Estonian lace stitches, see this site.For more examples of the beautiful stitches originating in Estonia, take a look at the Estonian Lace Study.
Row 17 of the edging includes a 2-stitch mini cable crossing. Accent cable crossings are a common feature of Estonian lace patterns in Pitsilised Koekirjad.
Crochet Cast-On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each ch until the required number of sts have been picked up. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.K3tog: Knit next 3 sts together.
Sssk: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Insert left needle into fronts of these 3 sts and knit them together.
S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog. Knit next st through back loop, then pass both slipped sts over st just knit. This forms a centered double decrease.
SK2P: Slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased.
RT (Right Twist): K into back of second st on left needle, k into front of first st on neft needle, drop both sts from left needle.
1-into-3 star: [K1 tbl, yo, k1 tbl] in next st. 1 st increased to 3 sts.
3-into-3 star: K3tog without dropping sts from left needle; yo, k same 3 sts together again and drop from left needle. Number of sts has not changed.
3-into-2 star: K3tog without dropping sts from left needle, p same 3 sts together and drop from left needle. 3 sts decreased to 2 sts.
3-into-9 star: K3tog without dropping sts from left needle, yo, [k same 3 sts together again without dropping from left needle, yo] 3 times, k same 3 sts together again and drop from left needle. 3 sts increased to 9 sts.
2-into-9 star: K2tog tbl without dropping sts from left needle, yo, [k same 2 sts together again without dropping from left needle, yo] 3 times, k same 2 sts together again and drop from left needle. 2 sts increased to 9 sts.Directions for blocking a lace shawl may be found here.
Note: Charts are shown here in the order they are knit -- top to bottom, left to right.
DIRECTIONS 
Note: The first st of each row is slipped purlwise. Bring the yarn between the needles to the back of the work before knitting the next st.Using Crochet Cast On, CO 2[3] sts.
K 17 rows, slipping first st of each row.
At end of last row, turn work 90 degrees clockwise and pick up and k 7 sts along one long edge of work – this will be 1 st in each slipped st along edge, skipping first st.
Remove waste yarn from CO edge, placing resulting 2[3] live sts on left needle; k these sts. 11[13] sts.Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1[2], work first row of Set-Up Chart, place marker, k1 tbl, place marker, work first row of Set-Up Chart, k2[3]. 19[21] sts.
The markers now in place indicate the center st of the shawl. From this point on, k this st tbl on RS rows, and p it on WS rows.
The 2[3] sts at each edge are the border sts; work these sts in garter st. Always slip the first st of each row.Note: It is important to keep the slipped edge sts very loose, so the shawl will block properly. Don't worry if they look loose and sloppy before blocking.
Work Rows 2-6 of Set-Up Chart, working center st and edge sts as set. 35[37] sts when Set-Up Chart is complete.
Continue as follows, working center st and edges sts as set.
Work Rows 1-8 of Star Chart 4[6] times. 163[229] sts.Work Rows 1-16 of Transition Chart. 175[225] sts.
Work Rows 1-8 of Blossom Chart 4[8] times. 271[417] sts. There are 11[17] Blossom motifs in each half of the shawl.
Work Rows 1-16 of Edging Chart 1. 339[497] sts.
Work Rows 1-12 of Edging Chart 2. 435[629] sts.
BO Row [RS]: Using 2 strands of yarn held together, p2, [sl both sts back to left needle and p2tog, p1] to last st, sl both sts back to left needle and p2tog. Break yarn and draw through last st.
FINISHING Weave in ends.
Following directions here, block shawl, pinning out each point of edging. The shawl will block to slightly more than a triangle; it will form a chevron with curled points. Allow shawl to dry completely before unpinning.If using the yarn recommended, beware that fine alpaca yarns are easily abraded when wet. You can pull the piece quite tightly, but be careful about scraping against the surface, or pulling your fingers through the edge loops repeatedly while pinning and re-pinning the points.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
Elizabeth Freeman counts trees and crunches numbers for a living, and has been known to bring her lace knitting along on wilderness backpacking trips.Pattern & images © 2008 Elizabeth Freeman. Contact Elizabeth 
by Andee Steinman It is not easy being a knitter during the winter when you live in the desert. “Sweater envy” doesn’t begin to cover the torture. The hats, the mittens, the afghans -- can a sister get some snow?
While I was on my yearly sojourn to Yosemite this year, I began to envision a short-sleeve fitted sweater that could easily be worn year round in most climates. Success!
The garments I usually knit must fit two criteria: can I wear it in the desert, and do I have to do much seaming? I am not really a lazy knitter, as I will knit something that is fairly complicated, all in the name of minimal finishing. This pattern is fairly simple, super practical and a really quick knit!
Knit in the round in a cable rib to the split for the collar. From there, it is knit flat, working all parts at the same time. It is a shawl-collard, short sleeve sweater, but can easily be converted to a long sleeve garment. This sweater is fitted and comfortable.
model: Courtney Fisher photos: Andee SteinmanSIZE XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size XS)
To fit chest circumference: 29[33, 37, 41, 45, 49] inchesFINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 22 [26, 30, 34, 38, 42] inches, unstretched
Length: 21.5[23, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27.5] inches
Note: The stitch pattern is very stretchy, and is designed to be worn with approx. 7 inches of negative ease.MATERIALS Cascade Pima Melange [100% Cotton; 120yd/110m per 50g skein]; color: #C111; 8 [9, 11, 12, 13, 15] skeins Note:
Although still available in many places, Cascade Melange is now discontinued. Shine Worsted from KnitPicks.com is a suitable substitute.
Recommended needle size: 1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle; 24 or 32 inches long (longer needle recommended for larger sizes) 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] 3 stitch markers; be sure one marker is different from the others Stitch holders or waste yarn Tapestry needle Sewing needle and thread to match yarn 3 buttonsGAUGE 32 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in cable rib stitch unstretched.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
If desired, sleeves may be worked using the Magic Loop technique rather than double-point needles. A tutorial can be found here.
RT (Right Twist): K2tog, but do not drop sts from left needle; insert right needle between sts just worked together and k into first st again; drop both sts from left needle.
W2tog: Work 2 sts together in pattern. If the next st in pattern would be a k st, work k2tog; if it would be a p st, work p2tog.
Mini-Cable Rib Pattern (Worked in the round over a multiple of 8 sts):
Rounds 1-2: [P2, k2] to end.
Round 3: [P2, k2, p2, RT] to end.
Round 4: [P2, k2] to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 for pattern.Mini-Cable Rib Pattern (Worked back and forth over a multiple of 8 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [P2, k2] to end.
Rows 2 and 4 [WS]: [P2, k2] to end.
Row 3 [RS]: [P2, k2, p2, RT] to end.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.1x1 Rib (Worked over an even number of sts):
Row 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat this row for 1x1 Rib.DIRECTIONS 
LOWER BODY
Using circular needle, CO 192[232, 272, 304, 344, 384] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Use the marker which is different from the others; end of round is located at center back.
Work in Mini-Cable Rib until work measures 4[4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5] inches.
Next Round: Work 96[116, 136, 152, 172, 192] sts in pattern, place marker, work in pattern to end.Decrease Round: [Work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, w2tog] twice. 2 sts decreased.
Work 3 rounds in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rounds 4 times more. 182[222, 262, 294, 334, 374] sts.Continue in pattern until work measures 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10] inches.
Increase Round: [Work in pattern to marker, m1, slip marker] twice. 2 sts increased.
Work 3 rounds in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rounds 4 times more. 192[232, 272, 304, 344, 384] sts.Continue in pattern until work measures 12[13, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5] inches, ending with Round 3 of pattern.
Shape Neckline Placket:
Next Round (pattern Round 4): Work 44[56, 64, 72, 84, 92] sts in pattern (next st is a p st), BO 6 sts, continue in pattern to end of round.
Break yarn. Slip next 44[56, 64, 72, 84, 92] sts (to bound-off sts) to right needle.Rejoin yarn at placket edge with RS facing and begin working back and forth in pattern as set, beginning with Pattern Round 1. Note that Round 3 of pattern will always be a RS round. From this point on, work first and last st of each row in stockinette st.
Continue in pattern until work measures 14.5[15.5, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18] inches (2.5 inches from beginning of placket shaping), ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: Work 40[49, 58, 65, 74, 83] sts in pattern and place these sts on a st holder or waste yarn; BO 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts, work 85[103, 121, 135, 153, 171] sts in pattern (86[104, 122, 136, 154, 172] sts after BO sts) and place these sts on a st holder or waste yarn; BO 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts, work in pattern to end. 40[49, 58, 65, 74, 83] sts.
LEFT FRONT
Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping and neckline shaping are worked at the same time.Shape Armhole:
Work 1 row in pattern.
Next Row [RS]: BO 2[3, 4, 4, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 34[40, 46, 53, 59, 65] sts.
From this point on, work st at armhole edge in stockinette st.Work 1 row in pattern.
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 7, 11, 14, 17] times more.AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 16[17, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5] inches (4 inches from beginning of neckline placket), ending with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 21[22, 23, 24, 25, 26] times more. 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts.Continue in pattern until work measures 21.5[23, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27.5] inches (armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches), ending with a WS row.
BO all sts.RIGHT FRONT
Place 40[49, 58, 65, 74, 83] held sts of right front on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn at armhole edge.Next Row [WS]: BO 2[3, 4, 4, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows once, then work the first of these rows (BO row) once more. 34[40, 46, 53, 59, 65] sts.
From this point on, work st at armhole edge in stockinette st.Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 7, 11, 14, 17] times more.AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 16[17, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5] inches (4 inches from beginning of neckline placket), ending with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 21[22, 23, 24, 25, 26] times more. 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts.Continue in pattern until work measures same as left front to shoulder, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts.
BACK
Place 86[104, 122, 136, 154, 172] held sts of back on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn.
BO 2[3, 4, 4, 5, 6] sts at beginning of next 6 rows. 74[86, 98, 112, 124, 136] sts.
From this point on, work st at armhole edge in stockinette st.Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 7, 11, 14, 17] times more. 70[76, 82, 88, 94, 100] sts.Work in pattern until work measures 20[21.5, 23, 24, 25, 26] inches (armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches), ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: Work 20[22, 24, 26, 28, 30] sts in pattern and place these sts on a st holder or waste yarn; BO 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40] sts, work in pattern to end. 20[22, 24, 26, 28, 30] sts.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Next Row [RS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.
BO remaining 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts.Place held sts on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn.
Next Row [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.
BO remaining 10[12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts.Sew back to fronts at shoulders.
COLLAR
Using circular needle and beginning with RS facing at base of right front placket edge, pick up and k 1 st in each row and 1 st in each BO st around placket and neckline edge, ending at base of left front placket edge. As you pick up sts, place st markers at each shoulder seam.As you work the sequence of short rows that follows, when you encounter a wrapped st, pick up the wrap and work it together with the wrapped st.
Row 1 [WS]: Work in 1x1 Rib up left front edge and across back neck edge to 1 st before marker at right shoulder, W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: Work in 1x1 Rib to 1 st before marker at left shoulder, W&T.
Row 3 [WS]: Work in pattern to 1 st past previous wrapped st, W&T.
Rows 4-8: Work 5 more short rows as for Row 3. Last wrapped st on each side is 6th st from marker.
Row 9 [WS]: Work in pattern to 3 sts past previous wrapped st, W&T.
Rows 10-22: Work 13 more short rows as for Row 9. Last wrapped st on each side is 34th st from marker.
Row 23 [WS]: Work in pattern to 5 sts past previous wrapped st, W&T.
Work 3[3, 5, 7, 9, 9] more short rows as for Row 23. Last wrapped st on each side is 46th[46th, 52nd, 58th, 64th, 64th] sts from marker.Next Row [WS]: Work in pattern to end.
Work 4 rows in 1x1 Rib over all sts.Note: Directions for buttonholes are based on a row beginning with a k st. If your row begins with a p st, work 4 sts before the first buttonhole instead of 5.
Buttonhole Row [RS]: Work 5 sts in pattern, yo, k2tog, [work 8 sts in pattern, yo, k2tog] twice, work in pattern to end.
Work 5 more rows in pattern. BO all sts in pattern.
SLEEVES
Using double-point needles, beginning at center of underarm BO edge with RS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each BO st and 3 sts for every 4 rows around armhole edge.
Place marker and join to work in the round.
Count sts on needle. If necessary, in next round increase or decrease up to 4 sts to obtain a mutiple of 8 sts.Set-up Round: K1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1. This round establishes Mini-Cable Rib Pattern for sleeves.
Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 round in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rounds 16 times more. 34 sts decreased.Continue in pattern until sleeve measures 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7] inches.
Work other sleeve in the same way.
BO all sts in pattern.FINISHING Sew edges of collar to BO edge of placket opening, overlapping right collar (with buttonholes) over left collar. Sew buttons to left collar, behind buttonholes.
Weave in ends. Wash garment according to directions on ball band and lay flat to dry.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER 
When Andee Steinman is not chatting with her knitting buddies online, she is knitting obsessively or herding children at her day job as a teacher. Visit her here.Pattern & images © 2008 Andee Steinman. Contact Andee
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